The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces

Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.

This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish berries on a rambling allotment situated between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce wine from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Across the World

To date, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district area and over 3,000 vines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the globe, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve land from development by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units within cities," explains the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," adds the president.

Mystery Eastern European Grapes

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "This is the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he removes bruised and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Across the City

Additional participants of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of wine from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production

Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Environments and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to install a barrier on

Amber Snyder
Amber Snyder

A blockchain enthusiast and tech writer with a passion for demystifying digital currencies for everyday users.